*Getting to Toskana Therme was a bit of an adventure for me. Once there, I loved the countryside, the town of Bad Sulza, Toskana Therme and the Wellnesspark (spa). Bad Sulza, also known as the Tuscany of the East, is a place untouched (and unspoiled) by modern tourism. The few inconveniences are far outweighed by the authenticity of the experience. I found the trip well worth while, and I would do it again in a heart beat.

Toskana Therme and the Wellnesspark

My trip to Bad Sulza was made to attend the BISA Conference held at Hotel an der Therme's Conference Center, but I stayed a few extra days to enjoy the Therme and spa on a Singles Package. The package was an incredible value at $300 US (245.50€). It included three night's accommodations, breakfast and dinner, entrance to Toskana Therme and three spa treatments in the Wellnesspark (spa).

I spread my spa experiences out over a number of days. The first was the most unique - an evening visit to Toskana Therme. I took the coupon good for two hours at Toskana Therme that I received at the hotel check-in to the Therme's reception desk and exchanged it for a coin. I went through the turnstile, and then felt completely lost. Fortunately, an employee saw me and guided me into the changing area where there were a series of doors, each one a side of a private, individual changing room. The other side of the tiny room was another door. I changed into my bathing suit and exited through the other door into a hallway where there was a wall of lockers. I put my clothes in one, put the coin in and pulled the key out. At the end of the hall were showers. I showered then stepped into a most impressive area.

*The domed ceiling of this futuristic space soared over a series of cascading pools. Each pool held a large number of floating people. A stage with live musicians seemed to be suspended in mid-air above the pools. Floor-to-ceiling glass walls opened onto steaming outdoor pools, the starry night and moonlit fields beyond. I entered the doorway to the Liquid Sound Temple on one end of the massive space. It was quieter in this smaller, darker, more intimate, beehive-shaped place. I got in the 95°F/35°C salty spring water, held on lightly to the rail that encircled the pool, and floated easily on my back. As my ears went underwater, the quality of the music improved. I looked at the stained-glass mandala on top of the dome and the light on the walls and listened to the music under the water. I was being bathed in light and sound as well as water. Soon my eyes closed, and I stopped listening to the music and started feeling it. I went into a kind of meditative state and just relaxed.

*Over the course of my two-hour visit, I moved through most of Toskana Therme's seven pools. I saw people of all ages there. It was a true gathering place for the community, yet the experience of the pools allowed total inward focus and individual rejuvenation. We were all experiencing Liquid Sound®, a computer-controlled multimedia system for the complementary production of sound, light and video over and under water invented by media-artist Micky Remann and dedicated to the Gesamtkunstwerk (body-soul-spirit). While my time was spent in the pools, I could have also enjoyed the other facilities - four whirlpools, Bio-Saunarium, outdoor sauna, Roman steam baths, saline cold steam sauna (Saline-Light-Sound-Space inhalation) and action shower or enjoyed a snack or meal at Ristorante Toskana Cafeteria.

Had I read the material in my hotel room before going the Therme, I would have known to bring a towel and bathrobe from my room, but I didn't. I could have dried off in the sauna if I need to, but I didn't need to. It was just as well. I later found out that the sauna was co-ed and bathing suits were not allowed.

Back at the lockers, I put my key in and took my clothes out, stepped into the tiny changing room and got dressed. I remembered I left the coin in the locker and went back to get it. It was gone. Fortunately, my coin was only good for entrance to the Therme, but some coins can be used to charge expenses (such as food), so losing it could be costly. As it was, losing it was just a bit embarrassing. The coin is needed to put into the exit turnstile. I had to sneak out with a couple who were clearly distressed that I did. I explained what happened as best I could to the Therme receptionist who didn't seem to be concerned about it.

Toskana Therme Wellness Park Reception

Treatment Room in Toskana Therme Wellness Park

I had a different kind of water experience another evening - a Cleopatra Bath in the Wellnesspark (spa). The spa is on the second floor of the same building as the pools. After checking in, my therapist escorted me to a small changing room, locked the door to the hallway, instructed me to undress and left through another door. There were hooks for my clothes and a place to leave my bag. I disrobed and entered the lovely, softly lit treatment room through the door the therapist had gone through. A bath had already been drawn for me. I got into the tub, and the therapist added oils, goat's milk and honey to the water to moisturize the skin. It smelled wonderful. I soaked in privacy for about 20 minutes and felt completely relaxed. Fortunately, it was the last treatment of the night. The walk back to House 3 in the invigorating, chilly night air was not enough to undo the effects of the bath. I fell asleep immediately.

Massage Treatment Room in Toskana Therme's Wellnesspark

Facial Treatment Room in Toskana Therme's Wellnesspark

The next day, I returned for a back massage and a facial. My therapist escorted me to another ante room where I was instructed to disrobe. I did and followed her into a cheery treatment room. I got on the table face down and she applied hot compresses to my back. It felt wonderful. She said it was for muscle stimulation, but I found it very relaxing. This was followed by a nice back massage. I had a cup of tea, then we moved across the hall to a facial treatment room. This room had a window that, if the blinds were up, would overlook the large pool area of the Therme below. I had a nice facial using Sothys products which included cleansing, a peel, facial massage, a mask, eye treatment and moisturizer. My skin felt great afterwards.

Getting to Bad Sulza

It took a while to get to Toskana Therme. I flew from Philadelphia to Frankfurt then took three trains to get to Bad Sulza. My comfort level would have been much higher if I had:
1) a better understanding of the train system before using it,
2) an English-German phrase book, and (most importantly)
3) only brought one piece of luggage with me.
The trains were great, but it took me a while to catch on to the system - understanding the tickets, platforms, train identification, etc.. At one point, I thought I was on the wrong train (I wasn't). Another time, I missed a connecting train by three minutes due to the previous train stopping mid-route for 20 minutes and my difficulty in finding the correct platform. Fortunately, I only had to wait a half hour for the next train. The train I spent the longest time on was lovely. I thought I was in a first-class section, but I wasn't. The seats were wide and comfortable, the walls were beautifully finished with wood and glass, and there was lots of space between rows (worlds away from NJ Transit!). I assumed that I would be able to ask people for assistance during my trip and, while I did find a number of people who were very helpful, most did not speak English (hence the need for a phrase book). Finally, I stupidly lugged around three pieces of luggage with me - one for clothes, one for meeting materials, and one for my laptop. Getting them on and off the trains was a real challenge. Most of the train stations did not have escalators going up. Picture me going up the steps with one suitcase then running back down for the other two - over and over again. I am very grateful to a number of kind strangers who helped take a bag up a flight of stairs.

Hotel an der Therme

When I finally arrived in Bad Sulza, I found the train station boarded up, no taxis and no people. I looked around and decided to walk. I could have called Hotel an der Therme to come get me, since I had arranged for my cell phone to work in Germany before leaving the US. But this was a small town, and there seemed to be plenty of directional signs. How hard could it be? Remember those three pieces of luggage? While they all had wheels, Bad Sulza is quite hilly. I pulled them up 20 feet, stopped to rest, pulled them up 20 feet, stopped to rest, etc. for about 20 minutes following the signs until I was almost at the top of the hill.

Hotel an der Therme House 1

Hotel an der Therme Conference Center and Toskana Therme

I was relieved to see Hotel an der Therme and picked up the pace until I reached the front desk. Imagine my dismay when I was told I was in House 1 and my reservation was in House 3 - FURTHER UP THE HILL! I was a bit surprised and disappointed that the receptionist did not call a bell person or offer to help me with my bags (Didn't he know how long I had been traveling and how tired I was?). I was clearly expected to take them myself, so I did. I left House 1 and pulled my luggage a little further - past the Conference Center and Toskana Therme to the very top of the hill.

Hotel an der Therme House 3

Hotel an der Therme House 3 8th Floor Hallway

I finally reached House 3, checked in and was given instructions on how to get to my room. It was then I realized there were no bell staff. There was one self-service luggage cart in the lobby. I took the elevator to the eighth floor and walked down the hallway to my room. I recognized some of the photographs on the hallway walls as being the work of Linda Troeller, author of Healing Waters, Spa Journeys and The Erotic Lives of Women.

Hotel an der Therme Single Guest Room in House 3

Hotel an der Therme Single Guest Room in House 3

Hotel an der Therme Guest Room Bathroom House 3	Hotel an der Therme House 3 View from 8th Floor Guest Room
Hotel an der Therme House 3 View of Toskana Therme from 8th Floor Guest Room	Hotel an der Therme House 3 View from 8th Floor Guest Room

House 3 had originally been built as a hospital when the country was East Germany. My room was simply decorated, clean, and comfortable and had everything I needed. I did not watch the television, but my next door neighbor, also an American, did when she had trouble sleeping in the middle of the night. The sound carried right through the walls. I was happy I had the earplugs I use on airplanes with me! The best feature of the room was the fabulous views - Toskana Therme, picturesque Bad Sulza, castles on not-so-distant hilltops, rolling countryside and vineyards (I brought home a couple bottles of the local wine - 2003er Kerner Spätlese fruchtig/süß - and everyone raved about it).

Bad Sulza

Bad Sulza is famous for its saltwater natural springs. Salt has been extracted from the mineral-laden water since the 1700's. The humid, salty air produced by the Gradierwerks (thorn houses) became the basis of the original spa. Public bathhouses were built in the 19th century. Today, the historic Inhalitorium in Bad Sulza Kurpark is a kur library. I had time to walk down the other side of the hill from House 3 and walk through the town of Bad Sulza. It is a charming town. I enjoyed schwarzer Waldkuchen (Black Forest Cake) on the recommendation of my daughter who has visited Germany before. I used my cell phone to call her, and we chatted while I savored the cake and a latte at Cafe am Markt. I bought a few souvenirs at a few shops and strolled through the lovely Kurpark.

I was fortunate to be able to also visit nearby Auerstedt and Weimar. Highlights of my short trip to Auerstedt included a willow palace (it must be something to see when the leaves are green!), and Auerstedt Castle. At Scloss Auerstedt is a local history museum, carriage museum, Maloca Auerword and Reinhardt's Restaurant (where I had an opportunity to eat during the BISA Conference). The battle of Jena-Auerstadt was fought nearby on October 14, 1806 between the forces of Napoleon I of France and Frederick William III of Prussia.