Mark beat the drum faster and faster. The hiss of our maracas and sound of our voices joined in the cacophony, filling the tiny chamber with explosive volume. Suddenly, there was silence. The circular shape of the space, the low terracotta walls, the dome of the brick ceiling and the three other people sharing this experience could not be seen. The only source of light came from the soft glow of once red-hot volcanic rocks cooling in the central pit. Mark dipped a fistful of palm fronds into a container of herb-infused water and flicked them on the pit. “Ahoo!” Clouds of thick, aromatic steam rose into the already hot, moist room. This was the second of four parts of the Temazcal ritual.

I was North – Fire: the Jaguar. Mark was East – Air: the Eagle. Alix was South – Earth: the Serpent. Bob was West – Water: the Dolphin. We formed a medicine wheel in the Temazcal, The House of the Hot Stones, an Aztec sweat lodge. We were at Ceiba Del Mar Hotel & Spa, about 20 minutes south of the Cancun airport. Mark, a dentist who has formally studied Temazcal and has a degree in indigenous medicine, was our guide through the experience.

Our journey began in Ceiba Del Mar’s spacious spa where we changed into our bathing suits in the separate men’s and women’s locker rooms. We then joined Mark in the waiting area, and he led us down a winding path to the beach where we found a roaring fire in a white, freestanding fireplace topped with a tall, thin chimney. A contrasting white, squat structure reminiscent of an igloo - the Temazcal - stood next to the fireplace, details of the designs encircling it lost in the fading light of the sunset. Large logs had been placed in the sand across from the entrance to form a defined space. A man dressed in white, The Man of The Fire, slowly walked in this space. Pungent smoke from burning copal resin drifted from a cup in his hand.

Mark explained that the Temazcal is the traditional sweat lodge of the population indigenous to Mexico, much like the sweat lodges of the native populations of the Northwest of North America and the Southwest of the United States. They were traditionally used to heal individuals of physical and spiritual ills.

Mark was going to take us on a similar journey. First, we had to be cleansed before we could enter the Temazcal. We were instructed to stand up, close our eyes, spread our arms out wide and open our hands. Since my eyes were closed, I am not sure what exactly was done, but I did smell smoke from burning copal resin. When this was done, we crawled on our hands and knees, one-by-one to pass through the low door of the structure. As we passed over the threshold, we were instructed to say, “For my relationships!” to honor them.

Mark came in last, took his position in the east and assigned us our new identities, the four elements, by where we had chosen to sit. He told us we had symbolically re-entered the womb to rid ourselves of the weight we carry with us in our everyday lives - to look inside and find ourselves again. He asked us what we would like to accomplish during the time we had together – what our intentions were. When it was my turn, I said I wanted to learn about the ceremony and, perhaps, make a connection with something ancient.

Mark explained that there were four parts to the ritual, one for each compass direction. Each part would begin with calling The Man of The Fire - “Piedro a Caliente!” The Man of The Fire would bring shovels full of large, red-hot rocks into the structure and deposit them in the central pit. We would say, “Ahoo!” to show respect to the grandmothers the rocks represented. The door would close, and Mark would spray water on the stones to create thick steam carrying the scent of eucalyptus, rosemary, mugwart, pericon and/or other warming or stimulating herbs. He would then lead us through each part of the journey. As The Eagle, he led us through a chakra cleansing (spirit). As The Serpent, he asked us to imagine ourselves as 10-year-olds and sing and make noise to bring ourselves back to that time of our lives, to free ourselves (mind). As The Dolphin, he gave us thick slabs of cool, silky aloe vera to rub all over ourselves to nourish the skin (body). After Mark finished guiding us through each part of the journey, we called for The Man of The Fire to open the doors, “Abre La Puerta!” The doors would open, allowing some of the steam to escape and cooler air to enter. During one break, we were served hot tea. (I'm not sure what kind was served but I have since learned that chamomile, sassafras, horehound, or milfoil are often used.) After a few minutes, the cycle would start again.

Mark asked The Man of The Fire for extra heat for the last section in his role as The Jaguar. This session did not last as long. The heat was intense and drove us from “the womb.” We again paid homage to our ancestors as we crossed the threshold on our hands and knees, “For my relationships!” We emerged to see a full moon over the Caribbean. We ran to the sea and jumped in the waves. We were reborn. We were new.

We wandered back to the spa where we showered, soaked in the whirlpool and reflected on the mystical journey we had just taken. We were relaxed. We were refocused. This was truly a wonderful treatment for body, mind and spirit.

According to Mark, the Temazcal is often used for couples before their wedding. How appropriate to be "reborn" together before starting life's journey with each other! With the comfortable guest rooms, beautiful grounds, wonderful beach and convenient location, this couples-only boutique hotel is a lovely place to have a wedding, spend a honeymoon or celebrate an anniversary!

The Spa

The Spa at Ceiba Del Mar is over 8,600 square feet with separate men’s and women’s locker rooms, each with showers, steam room, sauna, whirlpool and plunge pool. There are seven treatment rooms, each featuring a private shower and adjoining private garden. The spa also offers a double massage area for couples only. The spa menu encompasses a variety of facials, nail care, body care and massage (on the beach, in the spa, or in-room). It also includes unique treatments such as Temazcal, Mayan Balsamic Massage, Franklin Wave Bath, Chromotherapy and D’Arson Therapy. The Fitness Center offers weights, cardiovascular equipment and yoga classes. There is also a beauty salon. A juice bar inside the spa offers refreshments while you're in the spa. Spa selections are available on the resort’s restaurant menus.

The Hotel

The hotel offers 120 guest rooms and six suites. The rooms are grouped in eight three-story buildings. Each building houses 18 guest rooms and is topped with a rooftop garden area overlooking the resort and Caribbean. A whirlpool, lounge chairs and bar serving light food and beverages makes this a lovely place to relax. The guest rooms have a unique design with a curving staircase in the living area leading to an optional, additional, linked suite and a tub opening onto the bedroom overlooking the ocean view from the terrace. Room amenities include data port, CD player, TV with international cable, VCR, hairdryer, robes, slippers, safe deposit boxes, iron, ironing board, mini-bar and continental breakfast in room through a butler box (a server can open the box from the hallway to deposit the food, guests can open the box from in the room to retrieve the food). There are two pools, an outdoor whirlpool and a tennis court on the resort. Bicycles, motorbikes, nature hikes and diving / water sports are available on the property. MAP (Modified American Plan) includes breakfast of sweet rolls, coffee or tea in room and full breakfast and dinner.